Master the Weed Wars: 12 Common Offenders and How to Crush Them

To keep your outdoors immaculate, you must win the weed war—a never-ending war against garden nuisances. Be prepared by learning about the top 12 culprits, from invasive crabgrass to stubborn dandelions. However, knowing the opposition is only one aspect of victory; Another is using strategic tactics. Whether it’s regular weeding, using organic pesticides, or creating mulch barriers, each strategy is essential to your control strategy. Remember that consistency is essential. Through constant monitoring and decisive action, you can reclaim your garden and win the weed war.

Winning the weed wars requires understanding your enemy. Because of their extensive taproots, dandelion regeneration must be stopped by removing them completely. On the other hand, early application of pre-emergent herbicides is necessary to prevent rapid seed-based spread of crabgrass. Persistence of bindweed requires constant hand removal, while purslane succulent leaves require early diagnosis and prompt eradication.

Additionally, learning about the unique weed species and their life cycles in your area can benefit your battle strategy. In addition to traditional techniques, consider using natural repellants such as boiling water or vinegar solutions for spot treatment. With a combination of knowledge, persistence and a variety of techniques, you can successfully win the weed wars and restore your garden to its green glory.

Top 12 Common Weeds

**Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)**

Canada thistle’s numerous seeds and 15-foot-wide underground roots can produce new growth. In the soil, the seeds can survive for 20 years.

How to get rid of Canadian thistle

Canadian thistle is resistant to some single-action herbicides, so the best strategy is to exhaust the roots over time, according to Cornell University.

Dig as early as possible in the season. Next, use luxuriant crops such as winter wheat or alfalfa to shade the roots.

How to prevent Canadian thistle

It may take several attempts to completely remove Canada thistle. According to Gray, “Frequent tillage and harvesting have also been somewhat successful.” “A combination of frequent digging, careful monitoring for new plants, and heavy mulching can be effective for small infestations.”

**Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)**

Although the dandelion is arguably the most recognizable flowering plant, it has a variety of interesting culinary and creative applications. It can be used as a natural dye, a nutrient-rich green in salads, and even used to make dandelion wine. (I’ve done this. It makes a syrupy, sweet cordial that, I think, tastes great with ice cream!

How to get rid of dandelions

According to Pfeiffer, “on average, 15,000 seeds are prevented from developing for each dandelion plucked.”

Pfeiffer claims that since perennial dandelions have tap roots, “removal of the entire root is optimal.” When the root pieces are left in the soil, they can easily sprout.”

Before pulling, be sure to dig deep with a spade fork, hand fork, or hori-hori knife. It is easiest and most effective in spring, when the earth is moist and before flowering.

How to prevent dandelions

It can be fun to blow those poor seed heads in the wind, but each bud contains 200 seeds. Pfeiffer advises against seeding and instead sow your beds densely and maintain an uneven lawn, making sure to dig up any spots you miss.

Natural “contact sprays” such as mixtures of vinegar, soap and vegetable oils are also not advised by Pfeiffer. “They can control younger plants, but are less successful with older plants with larger root systems,” she claims.

Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia)

Common ragweed is the true cause of late summer allergies, although perennial goldenrod (Solidago canadensis), which has similar yellow flowers, is sometimes wrongly blamed. If left unchecked, it can grow six feet tall. Its seeds can persist underground for years.

How to get rid of ragweed

“Small invasions of annual ragweed are easily controlled by pulling or hoeing,” says Gray.

How to prevent ragweed

Gray suggests cutting or pruning large portions frequently. Early in the growing season, Cornell University recommends digging up even small plants.

**Large or Hairy Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis )**

This widespread weed can be found in disturbed open soil areas and lawns. Just as cool-season turfgrass has a hard time keeping hydrated, warm-season crabgrass thrives in hot weather.

How to get rid of crabgrass

Because the seeds are so prolific and long-lasting, controlling crabgrass can take several growing seasons. The main goal is shrinking the seed population.

According to the University of Massachusetts at Amherst Extension Service, timing is important when applying herbicides. recommends applying preemergent herbicides five days prior to crabgrass emergence and at soil temperatures of 55 degrees. Apply postemergent treatments as soon as crabgrass has two to five leaves.

“When possible, burning can be effective for large patches,” according to Gray.

“Populations will decline after a few seasons after heavy mulching. Small infestations can be removed by hand, using a spade, or by digging; best when soil is moist and before seed set. Pay attention to fresh plants.

How to prevent crabgrass

There are two strategies recommended by the UMass Extension Department to overcome crabgrass in your lawn or garden. First, water sparingly and deeply. Second, raise the mower setting by two or three inches.

By taking these actions, you can encourage your favorite plants to shade new crabgrass plants and send out deeper, more competitive roots.

**Field Bindweed/Perennial Morning Glory (Convolvulus arvensis)**

This deciduous perennial is the rampaging look-alike to the well-behaved annual, morning-glory vine. It spreads by abundant numbers of seeds and regrowth from root fragments.

How to get rid of field bindweed

According to Pfeiffer, grab as many fleshy roots as you can, making sure to collect horizontally spreading roots as well. This is easiest to do in the spring when the shoots are just beginning to emerge, or in the fall when the leaves are falling. Since indoor compost piles aren’t hot enough to destroy the seeds, she suggests throwing the vines in the trash.

To prevent suffocation of your shrubs and other perennials, it’s important to remove any vines that creep over, over, and into them. Gray advises against using any type of contact spray because it can harm nearby plants. She pointed out that a year after Roundup was applied near azaleas, blueberries and other plants, the chemical glyphosate slowed leaf development.

Gray adds “solarization” with black plastic can be effective if done for several years. But it will also deaden the life of the soil, so it’s not ideal.

How to prevent field bindweed

According to Pfeiffer, plants will eventually weaken if they are repeatedly mowed or chopped at ground level during the growing season. April is a good time to slow plant growth with a loose soil cover and prevent future generations from blooming.

**Foxtail (Setaria spp.)**

In the United States, a number of grass species belonging to the Poaceae family have taken over disturbed areas such as urban planting strips and lawns. The two most common offenders are green foxtail (Setaria viridis) and yellow foxtail (Setaria pumila). According to Pennsylvania State Extension Service, their seed heads spread widely and attach themselves to shoes, animals, and gardening implements.

Stay clear from summer blossoming foxtails with your dog. The prickly seed heads can lodge if eaten or if they get hooked on the skin, which can lead to an infection or make breathing difficult.

How to get rid of foxtail

“If only a few foxtail plants are infesting a lawn, they can be removed by hand pulling or by using a trowel,” according to Penn State Extension.

How to prevent foxtail

Again, less weeding is allowed on healthy grass. According to Penn State Extension, foxtail infestations can be reduced by increasing turf density through fertilization, watering during dry spells and adopting site-friendly turfgrasses.

**Lambsquarters/Pigweed (Chenopodium album)**

This cousin of quinoa is claimed to have a spinach-like flavor and is used in food and medicine in India for its vitamin-rich leaves. “Long tapirs extend deep into the soil, bringing water and nutrients closer to the surface and allowing more shallow-rooted plants to access them,” said the Brooklyn (N.Y.) Botanic Garden.

Unfortunately, in large quantities, it can be dangerous for cattle. It is easy to spot because of its attractive silvery leaves. Like it or not, you’ll find that it’s much easier to plant than spinach once it’s in your yard.

According to Gray, “some champion plants produce 70,000 seeds.” “Seeds can persist in the soil for decades.”

How to get rid of lambsquarters

According to Gray, “hand pulling is the easiest thing to do for small infestations in gardens.” “Draw or hoe when the soil is wet and the tillers are shallow and easy to remove.”

After agricultural use, many herbicides have developed resistance; In large areas, Gray suggests that frequent close mowing is one of your best tactics.

How to prevent lambsquarters

Once weeded, mulch deeply and be vigilant about scanning for seedlings, says Gray.

**Plantain (Plantago major)**

It was started by perennial settlers. Native Americans referred to it as the “white man’s footprint” because it continued to appear in areas damaged by human excavation.

The North Carolina State Extension Service claims it is a popular choice for kitchen gardens and foraging because its nutrient-dense leaves are high in calcium and vitamins A, C, and K. The ability to loosen compacted soil also aids in aeration. . Additionally, the leaves were used medicinally to heal stings and bites.

If it spreads to unwanted areas, take immediate action. A single plant is capable of producing up to 20,000 seeds.

How to get rid of plantain

The University of California Department of Agriculture recommends digging up established plants before they bloom and set seed. Each season, you may need to visit your bed several times. Also, don’t forget to clean your equipment before switching to a new bed!

How to prevent plantain

The less basal leaves of banana are resistant to grafting. According to Pfeiffer, your best protection is to keep digging and covering it with heavy mulch or other plants.

**Quack Grass/Couch Grass/Creeping Wild Rye (Elymus repens)**

These cool-season grasses that form thatch can have rhizomes that reach up to eight inches deep and extend horizontally up to 24 inches. Rhizomes are underground stems that give rise to new plants. Like Gray, a single plant has the potential to produce over 100 unique branching rhizomes, each containing hundreds of potential buds for future plants. “It can spread up to ten feet a year.”

Purdue University’s Turfgrass Program claims quack grass is allelopathic, meaning it emits chemicals that inhibit the growth of other plants, further exacerbating the situation.

How to get rid of quack grass

“When quack grass inserts its rhizomes into a lawn or attractive garden plant, it can be a challenge for the home gardener,” adds Gray. “Hand pull, hoe and dig to remove as many rhizomes as possible.”

How to prevent quack grass

Apply a thick layer of mulch after weeding, then watch for regrowth, Gray advises. After the site is cleared, consider planting low-growing ground coverings that retain moisture and keep out trespassers.

The Purdue program states that the best defense against quack grass is a rich, healthy lawn. If you are restoring a turf area where quack grass has been a problem in the past, legumes may be a better choice than seed.

**Red-Root Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus)**

A single plant can produce 35,000 to 100,000 seeds. According to Gray, “In agriculture, it can overtake crops, causing significant damage to vegetable, leguminous and grain crops.” Although edible, it can be high in nitrates, which poses a serious risk of poisoning to animals.

According to Gray, “It is a common weed of farms, gardens, roadsides, and other disturbed sites in open, sunny areas.”

How to get rid of red-root pigweed

“Small infestations are easy to remove by hoeing or hand-pulling,” Gray says.

How to prevent red-root pigweed

Simply mowing early in the season can reduce seed dispersal, says Gray.

**Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)**

You may be surprised to know that every spring, many people, including myself, gather the tender leaves of this native annual from the western United States.

To move leaves, bring a deep bag or upright basket, gloves and protective clothing. The sting of the nettle is immediately neutralized by full cooking. Fine restaurants seek out nettle tea for its earthy umami flavor, which boosts immunity, and uses it in their spring pesto recipes.

But, if you have small children or it is growing near a path, you may want to get rid of it.

How to get rid of stinging nettle

When the plants are more established, Gray suggests hand-pulling very young ones, pulling them out by as much of the rhizome as possible, or cutting them back [carefully] continuously to the ground.

How to prevent stinging nettle

According to the University of California, Agriculture’s Integrated Pest Management Program, a close cut before flowering can stop seeds from spreading. Avoid turning the soil too much as this encourages the growth of rhizomes.

Since nettles like moist soil, you may want to increase drainage or reduce irrigation to prevent infiltration.

**Creeping Charlie/Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea)**

Gray claims that at least two separate species can be identified by the popular name Creeping Charlie. “The branched [stolons]—growing aggressively by runners above the ground—are up to seven feet long,” says the author of this herbaceous perennial. Fun fact: A common “spiller” for container combinations is its variegated twin.

How to get rid of Creeping Charlie

“The persistence of stolons makes burning, cutting and harvesting ineffective, even when used in combination,” adds Gray.

Since any remaining pieces of stolon regenerate quickly, monitoring may be necessary even with repeated applications of herbicides. Small infestations can be dug out by hand, but every last stolon and root must be removed.

How to prevent Creeping Charlie

The University of Wisconsin Extension Service advises growing green grass or groundcovers to prevent creeping charley from taking root. To improve your lawn, try to maintain it, sow it two to three inches high frequently, irrigate deeply, infrequently, and select the right turfgrass for your area.

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